Walking in Plakias, Crete

I have to start with a confession, I am a little hung over and am writing this in the shade of an olive grove with absolutely no intention of walking today, that being said my friends have completed an arduous river walk yesterday and have set their mind to cliff jumping today. For my part it is rehydration therapy and a chance to put pen to paper and try to capture the atmosphere and conviviality of this secluded part of Crete that is Plakias.

The youth hostel in Plakias, Crete

Many travellers will have read about the beauty of Crete already and some of you may be familiar with the brash resorts on the north coast such as Malia, but our journey takes us to the more laid back and personable resort of Plakias, home to the famous youth hostel and its legendary manager Chris. Bearing in mind the maxim that some of the best places are the hardest to get to, Plakias makes a big effort to stay off the beaten track.

There are several options when it comes to getting to the island, a quick browse on skyscanner.net will provide the best price for a flight however a large number of visitors seem to arrive by ferry from either Athens or Santorini. Whichever method is used you will need to get to Rethymnon on the north of the island to pick up the bus to Plakias, and arriving on a Sunday, a national holiday or late at night may require an overnight stay.

The north of the island can seem built up and bland however all that changes once you board the Plakias bus and start the long a winding journey up to the mountains. Passing out of the town of Rethymnon the houses become fewer and fewer, the land takes on a rugged quality and the mountains seem to crowd you in from all sides. The bus meanders through the gorges with dramatic scenery appearing around almost every turn, perilous drops flank each side until finally the ocean comes into view with the broad sweep of the bay and the town of Plakias.

Mountain View from the youth hostel in Plakias, Crete

Walk across from the bus stand to the other side of the road and head inland a hundred metres or so where the signs for the youth hostel become apparent, pass a couple of hundred meters more and you will have arrived. The hostel is comprised of several low lying buildings set in an olive grove at the foot of the gorge with a small stream passing to one side; there is a communal area around the reception and a spotless shower block. But frankly these are just details, a side note, that while useful do not communicate the essence of the place and the reason so many guests return year after year.

As a new arrival it may seem daunting, everyone is settled around a few tables eating, talking or drinking and quite animated. That feeling is quickly dispelled as you are rapidly invited to sit down and join in with your own tales of adventure, making new friends almost effortlessly. Staying in the hostel (a dorm bed is only 9 Euros) and eating in a small family run taverna makes this a very budget friendly location.

It’s the following morning and I awake refreshed and ready for the trail, today we are going to Preveli beach, a curious little oasis of palm trees and a freshwater river planted on the shores of the Libyan sea and at the foot of the Monastery of the same name. The bus takes about twenty minutes driving through some outstanding countryside before arriving at the old Venetian bridge and starting the climb up the hill towards the monastery. The driver lets us out at the car park and it’s just a few hundred metres walking to the main path. The descent to the gorge and the beach is a tough 500 steps carved into the rock face, there are several lookout and photo spots on the way down and it is important to use these and not gaze around while walking as a fall would be very unforgiving.

Prevel Beach in Plakias, Crete

Once on the shore the heat of the dark sand is akin to hot coals and walking barefoot is next to impossible, a quick dash finds us knee deep in cool freshwater surrounded by palm trees and a reed bed…ah bliss! Many tourists make it to this spot so it’s not secluded however they stay only a few hours and stick mostly to the sand on the ocean side. We preferred the river aspect with a spectacular view up the mountains and the lush greenery of the valley. After a lunch at the beach shack it was time for a little exploration, there are paths along the rest of the coast but the more interesting one follows the course of the river through waterfalls and rock climbs until one arrives at the old Venetian bridge again and, if timed right, the bus connection back to Plakias.

If you have the energy to climb the 500 steps back to the top in the summer heat then all well and good. For a few Euros though a convenient boat taxi will shuttle you back to Plakias in a leisurely cruise along the coast. No prizes for guessing which option I took.