The New Acropolis Museum, Athens Greece

When I first visited Athens in the heat of a summer many years ago my travel partner insisted we climbed to the top of the rock in the scorching heat of a July afternoon, but with temperatures in the mid thirties I was gradually melting onto the slopes of that famous hill. The sanctuary of the small museum at the summit was little comfort, masses of tourists packed into a claustrophobic anteroom afforded little ventilation and it was more of a relief to exit. I still recall the descent to Monastriaki and a refreshingly cold beer at the end of the walk as a wonderful finale to a day at the furnace.

The external view of the new Acropolis Museum in Athens, Greece

2009 and it’s all changed, the Greek government have ploughed millions of Euros into a fitting temple of antiquities that is the New Acropolis Museum. Gone are the memories of dust and dankness and a big welcome to a bright, airy and spectacular museum that befits the 21st century. Unusually, for such a new exhibition, the entrance price has been set at just one Euro, allowing almost everyone access to the exhibits and a piece of Athens history.

Tradition, it seems, has to be followed and the Museum is reached at the bottom of the hill best suited after a tour of the Parthenon and the other temples and a time to reflect upon the beauty and timeless architecture of the Acropolis. The day I arrived the queue was about twenty minutes long but strategically placed well in the shade so no harm done, security was brisk and offering up a Euro seemed fair to say the least.

The building was designed by Franco-Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi and is set on concrete stilts over a 4th century BC settlement clearly visible beneath the glass flooring at the entrance. After entering the main foyer the exhibits are placed in order to effect a climb of the Acropolis with many findings displayed being from the lower slopes.

These columns are the real deal and not just for show!

As you pass through the museum it is interesting to note how close you can get to the pieces, allowing the visitor to scrutinize the lettering and inscriptions, Greek letters dating back to the 6th Century BC. The guards do not allow posing next to the exhibits and many tourists are told off, much to the amusement of fellow visitors. Flash photography is banned however the natural light that permeates the exhibition rooms is perfect for taking pictures nonetheless.

The sensation that I felt most was one of space, although the museum was busy it was very easy to move around, the architects and curators had clearly put time in to create rooms that allowed visitors to move around the exhibits, viewing them from all angles and offering much more freedom than is found in the more traditional museums.

If I have a criticism it is the lack of detailed explanations, those who are familiar and well studied will be happy, for the casual tourist it can be a struggle to decipher some of the relevance, this is outweighed somewhat by the flow of the exhibition as a climb of the hill. On each level there are scale models of the original layout of the temples making it easier to see where the exhibits fit into the grand design.

The museums stunning new foyer

For some the highlight is the Caryatids, one Korai obviously missing held prisoner by the British Museum. I think the space is meant to add pressure on the British to relinquish the statue and other notable marbles to the new Greek museum now that it has a spectacular and fitting home to come back to.

On the next level is the restaurant and outside terrace with terrific views of the Acropolis hill, mostly without the ugly but necessary scaffolding; I was only able to visit during the daylight hours and would love to have seen the spectacular view of the hill from here lit up in the dusk.

As we climbed higher up the levels in the museum we eventually arrived at the symbolic temple and the exhibition of the Parthenon sculptures with both the original ones and the copies (Elgin had the marbles away about 200 years ago; they too are in the British Museum in London), the view of the Acropolis hill and the ruins atop is a fitting setting.

The lovely Maidens on show

As museums go the New Acropolis is way up the scale, classical students will be in awe of the huge numbers and quality of the exhibits while keen tourists can glean much from the well laid out and logical array. Each can feel that the visit was worthwhile and counts as a cultural milestone for the Greek people, now did I mention that wonderful bar just around the corner………

Essential Information:

Open 8am to 8pm except Mondays
Entrance is 1 Euro
Nearest metro is Acropolis
Website www.theacropolismuseum.gr